Africa

São Tomé and Príncipe

At a glance

Two-island country

São Tomé and Príncipe is made up of two main islands. São Tomé is the larger island and the main point of arrival, while Príncipe is reached through São Tomé. In many cases you can use São Tomé to talk about the whole country.

Volcanic island landscapes

São Tomé is volcanic, which explains the black rocks, lush green interior, and formations such as Pico Cão Grande. This is similar to Equatorial Guinea, another Gulf of Guinea nation, where islands like Bioko and Annobón share the same volcanic origins and lush landscapes.

Cocoa and fishing

Cocoa is one of the country’s major cash crops, while fishing is central to daily life, food, and the local economy across the islands.

Slow island rhythm

The island is full of quiet roads, small coastal communities, beaches, forest, and places where you can slow down, detox and stay close to local life.

A visual journey through São Tomé

São Tomé city

Forro inscription on a house in São Tomé — **“Dêçu sô cá dá n’guê cuá” means “Only God gives things to people.”** The phrase is written in Forro, also known as Santomense, a Portuguese-based creole spoken on the island of São Tomé.

Estádio Nacional 12 de Julho in São Tomé — **Estádio Nacional 12 de Julho is one of the city’s historic sporting landmarks.** Located near the centre of São Tomé, the stadium is mostly used for football and reflects the country’s long sporting history.

Sweet Guest House in São Tomé — **I stayed at Sweet Guest House, which was quite nice and very well located.** It is a good base if you want to explore on foot, though the breakfast felt expensive for what you get.

Street food rice and fish in São Tomé — **Street food was one of the easiest and best parts of the stay.** In the evenings, it was easy to find women cooking rice and fish on the main road, served simply in a bag with a bit of lemon.

Cocoa products from São Tomé — **Cocoa is everywhere in São Tomé.** The island is known for its amazing cocoa beans, and cocoa remains one of the country’s most important cash crops.

São Tomé Island

Palm-lined road in São Tomé — **The roads outside the city can be beautiful.** Long stretches are full of palms and dense greenery, making even the drive feel like part of the experience.

Pico Cão Grande in São Tomé — **Pico Cão Grande is the defining image of southern São Tomé.** Rising from the rainforest in the Obô de São Tomé National Park, this volcanic needle is one of the island’s most recognisable natural features.

Volcanic rocks and ocean in São Tomé — **The black rocks are a reminder that São Tomé is volcanic.** Along parts of the coast, waves crash against dark rock formations, giving the shoreline a raw character.

Fishing boat on a beach in São Tomé — **Fishing is central to life in São Tomé and Príncipe.** On the beaches, fishing boats are everywhere, reminding you how closely food, work, and the sea are connected.

Fish meal in São Tomé — **The fish in São Tomé was excellent.** This meal cost around 10 euros including drinks for two people, and it was absolutely worth it.

Praia Jalé Ecolodge beach in São Tomé — **Praia Jalé Ecolodge is a place to disconnect.** Located on the southern edge of São Tomé island, it focuses on quiet, ecotourism, and a slower kind of beach experience. This beach is also where giant sea turtles lay their eggs in the sand every morning, as such there are only 3 bungalows located right on the beach. It is a magical experience.

River and ocean landscape in São Tomé — **São Tomé’s landscapes often feel layered.** Rivers, ocean, forest, palms, and small boats come together in scenes that feel calm but full of life.

Travel notes

Cash and cards

When I visited, it was not possible to withdraw cash with international cards. Some supermarkets accepted euros, and cash withdrawal options were limited to selected places such as hotels.

Getting there

Getting to São Tomé is not always straightforward. Most routes involve travelling through Portugal, Angola, Togo, or Gabon, and Príncipe is reached through São Tomé.

Island connections

São Tomé and Príncipe sits in a region with nearby island territories linked to Equatorial Guinea, but there is not always a strong practical connection between the island countries.

Praia Jalé

Praia Jalé is one of the best places to slow down. It is quiet, simple, and linked to turtle nesting and beach conservation, so it feels more like a protected sanctuary than a resort.